October 30, 2008
Tags: Africa, elephants, family and herds, Masai, mzungu, primitive tribes in africa, white masai, wildebeest
I have met a lot of interesting cultures over the years, but the Masai seem to stick out in my mind. They are one of the last remaining primitive tribes in Africa, and despite having some very curious traditions, they are very warm and welcoming.
My first meeting was an invitation from the women of the nearby village. They had been taught how to grow vegetables, and the garden they created in only one year was remarkable. Everything from tomatoes to cabbage, corn and onions were being nurtured into colossal proportions in this fertile land, shielded by sturdy fences from elephants, wildebeest and many other typical neighborhood creatures. As I arrived, the women greeted me with a welcome song and when I demonstrated my talent at creating some of the same vocalizations, they rushed at me with laughter and screams of “mzungu masai,” or “white masai” – for those of you not fluent in Swahili. It was an incredible morning punctuated with the women wanting to give me a gift of a giant head of lettuce. One I had to unfortunately decline, but the moment was extraordinary none the less.
After leaving the garden, I headed to one of the family corrals, where I had the chance to meet some warriors and go inside a manyatta. The small, smoke-filled hut had me instantly claustrophobic yet still fascinated, although I was not going to drink the chai tea with goat’s milk being offered. The entire village had turned out to meet the visiting mzungu, and I was overwhelmed with their welcome, but the finishing touch was when I was presented with a traditional beaded bracelet as a gift. 
These are uncomplicated people. They do not measure time with a watch or show much emotion. They are content with their existence and fiercely proud of tradition and customs. They live a meager existence and yet are some of the most resilient people on our planet. Most importantly perhaps, they measure success not by bank accounts and big houses, but by family and herds of cattle and goats.
Reprinted from my blog at a national travel magazine
October 13, 2008
Tags: Great Migration, Ngorngoro Crater, Serengeti Under Canvas, Tanzania, Ultimate Africa Safaris

The great migration
I just came back from Tanzania in East Africa, where I had the chance to check off one of the items from my “bucket list” (if you remember back to a blog I did earlier this year). What an amazing sight! The Great Migration of wildebeest and zebra is absolutely breathtaking, and the people are so warm and friendly.
My first lodge was the Serengeti Under Canvas, owned and operated by CCAfrica. This was a first-class experience with butler service and gourmet meals, but the best part was sleeping in my luxury tent (and I mean LUXURY!) while hearing the Great Migration taking place not too far away. I have been in the African bush before, but this was different. It is something I recommend that anyone who loves wildlife do at least once. It is something that you will never forget.
My second abode was the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, which sits right on the rim of the crater. The crater itself is a World Heritage site and is believed to actually have been higher than Kilimanjaro before it erupted millions of years ago. This is a completely different landscape from the Serengeti, but it is actually still part of the Serengeti/Mara ecosystem. The lodge itself is stunning, and each 5-star chalet is well-appointed. The coup de gras for me was a lovely touch – after spending the entire morning on the crater floor, we returned for a fabulous lunch in the lodge, and upon returning to the room, I found the free-standing tub full with a bubble bath and rose petals. Talk about room service!
I want to give a shout out to my new friends, Asheri and his team from Under Canvas and Beata and her team from the Crater Lodge. I miss you all terribly! I also want to thank the fabulous Ian Procter from Ultimate Africa Safaris in Washington for his help with all the last-minute plans. If any of you get the chance to visit the wonderful country of Tanzania, give Ian a call! – he is my hero

at the river
Reprinted from my blog at a national magazine